Underrated Dive Watches from Microbrands You Should Know About
Every well-rounded watch collection needs at least one proper dive watch. They’re water-resistant, which means the movement is well-protected during most activities and everyday wear. Furthermore, their aesthetics are simply iconic, boasting function-forward staples like a diver’s bezel, bold, luminescent hour markers, and often robust cases to support their substantial water resistance.
While most collectors are already familiar with watches from big hitters like Rolex, Omega, and Breitling, some lesser-known gems deserve a closer look. Ones that will pique the interest of even the most experienced collectors, and watches that deliver all the same dive-ready amenities without the premium of luxury brands. Let’s dive in.
Nivada Depthmaster: The 1960s Dive Icon That Conquered 1,000 Meters
If you prefer a watch with genuine history and trailblazing specs for its time, then look no further than the Depthmaster.
Officially, Nivada was established in 1926. However, its roots can be traced as far back as the late 1870s. The brand has serious provenance and has produced some rather trailblazing watches during its storied history, such as one of the earliest automatic watches in the 1930s and the Depthmaster, which, at 1,000 meters, was one of the most water-resistant watches at the time of its release, a feat it achieved without even initially including a helium escape valve.
By the 1960s, the brand had released an important trio of watches: the Chronomaster, an all-purpose chronograph, the Depthomatic with a handy depth gauge, and the previously-mentioned Depthmaster. 1,000 meters might not seem all that impressive by today’s standards, but it was virtually unheard of when the Depthmaster came to market.
The modern re-issue launched in 2020 stays true to the retro cushion-style case and 1,000-meter depth rating of its vintage muse while adding a helium escape valve and a variety of attractive design options, all starting at just over $1,000.
Baltic Aquascaphe Titanium: A Lightweight Upgrade to The Classic Model
Kickstarter wonderchild, Baltic, released the wildly successful Aquascaphe in 2018, just two years after officially launching the brand in 2016. In a sea of hopeful watch companies, Baltic stood out and won the backing of more than 1,000 Kickstarter patrons. Not long after that, Baltic released the Aquascaphe, a dive watch inspired by mid-century dive watches.
A couple of variations have come to market since 2018, including more recently the titanium Aquascaphe, which takes the slightly more refined aesthetics of the “Classic” model and gives it a more robust, tool watch makeover. In a first for the collection, the bezel is now made from tougher ceramic. Furthermore, the more modest quarterly markers on the diver’s scale have been swapped for ten-minute graduations. And then there’s the dial, which is now adorned with larger, easier-to-see hour markers.
The watch is more water-resistant, too, with a depth rating increased from 200 meters on previous models to a more modern 300-meter depth rating, and now measures 41mm, up from its 39mm predecessors. Collectors can choose between two variations of the titanium watch – one with a blue dial and bezel, and the other with a black dial and bezel. Each is priced at just $823.60, making the titanium Aquascape an affordable dive watch alternative from an up-and-coming brand.
Kuoe Sombrero: A Space-Inspired Japanese Diver with Vintage Soul
Kuoe is a lesser-known microbrand out of Kyoto, Japan, founded in 2020 by Kenji Uchimura. Back in 2010, he made a fateful stop at a shop selling vintage watches, and his appreciation for timeless and classic watches was born. He poured that passion into beginning a career in watches, first starting out at a watch company, learning the ins and outs of the business, before eventually launching his own brand in 2020 as Kuoe.
The Sombrero, released in 2024, is the brand’s 11th model release and its very first diver. Despite its name and linen dial, the brand claims the watch is inspired by the most majestic place in space – the Sombrero galaxy. It has all the usual dive watch credentials, as well, from the compressor-style case with a 200-meter depth rating to the textured dial decorated with Old Radium Swiss Super-LumiNova and the inner bezel accessible via a separate screw-down crown. At $895, it’s a unique and character-rich microbrand watch under $1,000.
Vulcain Skindiver Nautique: A Faithful 1960s Reissue
You might have heard of Vulcain, a Swiss brand founded in 1858. You might even be more familiar with its trailblazing Cricket, a watch that made history back in the 1940s as the first wristwatch with a mechanical alarm. Today, the brand’s portfolio is home to an impressive catalog of faithful vintage reissues, from the retro chronographs to the Skindiver Nautique, holding the next spot on our list.
Skindivers typically have smaller cases and are less water-resistant than traditional dive watches. The Nautique fits the bill at a modest 38mm and with a 200-meter depth rating, all while embracing normal dive watch elements like a 60-minute bezel, luminescent hour markers and hands, and a durable waterproof case.
The watch is inspired by a 1960s Vulcain diver, as we can see from the similarly shaped hour markers and hands and fluted bezel. Powering the watch is the Swiss-made self-winding ETA caliber 2824. Vulcain makes a few variations of its three-hander Skindiver Nautique, with prices starting at $1,640.
True North Marine Diver: A $350 Vintage-Inspired Submariner Alternative
True North Watch Company is a microbrand making waves out of Los Angeles with its masterfully executed and surprisingly affordable vintage-inspired watches. For those unfamiliar, the company was founded by Shane Russek, a wildlife photographer and vintage watch enthusiast. His aim? To create affordable and well-made neo-vintage watches inspired by everyone’s favorites, from the Rolex Daytona to the Submariner.
The Marina Diver pays an homage of sorts to the 1970s Submariner, but is by no means a direct copy. The gilt dial, doubled domed glass, Mercedes hands, and option for aged lume are all reminiscent of a genuine vintage Submariner. It has a very modest 100-meter depth rating, a 60-minute bezel, and lume – all features of a traditional dive watch. For those curious, the case measures just under 40mm and is 47mm from lug-to-lug and 14.8mm thick. The best part? The vintage-inspired dive watch will only set you back $350. An unbeatable entry-level option for vintage-style dive watch enthusiasts.
How to Choose Your Microbrand Diver
It can be tricky to choose the best microbrand diver with so many outstanding options on the market today. Narrowing your pick comes down to a few key factors:
Case Size: Do you prefer a compact skin diver like the Vulcain Nautique? Or does a more robust case like the 41mm Baltic titanium appeal to you more?
Water Resistance: A 100-meter depth rating is more than suitable for everyday wear or a quick dip in the pool. However, if you plan to dive with your watch, look for a model with a depth rating of 200 meters or more.
Design Personality: Some models follow a vintage-heavy design ethos, while others on the market put a modern twist on classic design elements. It depends on personal preference.
Budget vs. Specs: There’s no denying that the $350 Marina Diver offers tremendous value for the quality. If specs are more of a priority, something like the Depthmaster with serious underwater performance might fit the bill instead.
Final Thoughts
Let’s face it, many collectors’ grails are vintage watches. However, most are virtually unobtainable, both in availability and price. That’s where the ever-growing vintage-inspired market comes in clutch, offering comparable models without the insane premiums. From honest reissues to Rolex Submariner-inspired $350 watches, there’s a dive watch on our list for just about anyone.
Visit the Clicky Bezel store to find the watches mentioned in this article.